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Top 3 reasons your coppers aren’t popping!
One of today's hottest trends is copper. From the deep brown copper, to the lighter strawberry copper and everything in between, I'm seeing a lot of you struggle to get that POPPIN’ COPPER!
I want to share a few tips when it comes to working with coppers specifically, to set you up for success.
Here are a few reasons why your coppers ain't poppin’:
1. Not lifting PAST red.
When you use permanent color, your lifting ability is limited. I know what you’re thinking, you need the warm undertones for a copper, right?
You do, but you have to get PAST the reds and into the oranges and golds for your coppers to really pop.
Here’s an example:
Client is a natural level 4
Formula used: 7 copper with 20 volume.
The level 7 doesn't have enough alkalinity to really brighten and lighten that undertone, you are likely going to lift to a 5 which is- you guessed it- RED.
If you have level 5 RED (R) on the hair and level 7 COPPER (RRY) in your tube, here’s your final result:
RRRY—> which translates to Red, Red, Orange.
HEAVY ON THE RED…not so copper and at a level 6 at best.
Let's take the same scenario, but change our formula:
Client is a natural level 4
Formula used: 7 gold with 20 volume
The level 7 doesn't have enough alkalinity to really brighten and lighten that undertone, you are likely going to lift to a 5 which is- you guessed it- RED.
If you have level 5 RED (R) on the hair and level 7 GOLD (YYR) in your tube, here's your final result:
RRYY—-> which translates to Orange Orange.
That's much better and more on the copper spectrum but will still be at a level 6 at best, so pretty deep.
Is this blowing your mind a bit?
Solution: Use ALKALINITY to your favor and use a color that is lighter in level so that you can get more lift and get past the red undertones and into the copper, orange and gold undertones.
2. Lifting too light.
A lot of us are so used to bleaching and toning beautiful blondes that when it comes to coppers, we’re on auto pilot and not considering the outcome when we lift to a level 9.
Using the same color theory above, let’s break this down.
Client is lifted to a level 9 yellow.
Formula used: level 7 copper
If you have level 9 YELLOW (Y) on the hair and level 7 COPPER (RRY) in your tube, here’s your final result:
RRYY—> which translates to orange orange.
Tone is orange but is going to look very bright and hollow because you’re applying to level 9 hair.
Now, what if we shift that formula and add RED to it?
Client is lifted to a level 9
Formula used: Level 7 Copper and Level 7 Red.
You have YELLOW (Y) on the hair and level 7 COPPER (RRY) and level 7 RED (R), Here’s your final formula:
RRRYY—-> which translates to Copper Orange.
If you LIFT to a level 8 GOLD (YYR) and use a level 7 RED (R ) and a level 7 COPPER (RRY)
Here’s your final formula:
RRRRYYY—> which translates to Copper, Copper, Yellow. A bright and reflective COPPER!
Solution: DO not lift PAST GOLD if you are wanting a poppin’ copper!
3. The last reason your coppers aren’t poppin’ is likely because you aren't layering your colors.
Layering colors means that you use different types of coloring products to add texture and dimension to your final result.
Here’s an example:
Let’s say you get to your copper end result by using permanent, oxidative color.
After that color has been processed, you could go in with an acidic demi liquid gloss (in one level lighter and warmer) to GLOSS over your already beautiful result and give the hair extra shine and dimension.
Let’s say you get to your copper end result using an acidic demi, after the color has processed and been washed out, you could go over the hair with a direct dye in a copper, gold or a red with lots of clear to GLOSS and layer on a different type of dye for extra dimension in tone.
Most reds and coppers look BEST when layered…try it out and let me know what you think!
If you’re wanting to learn more about how I formulate, check out The FUNdamentals course-shop, for $500 off HERE!
Happy Hair Coloring!
Araz