If you pay close enough attention, the eyes, the skin and the hair all give us clues as to HOW the hair is going to behave when we color or lighten it.
Today, I want to share 1 secret that will help you determine how the hair will lift.
Let me say this, there are many many layers to this and a variety of things we all need to learn and pay attention to, to best predict what the hair will do. This is A tool you can use, but not the ONLY tool.
Ready for it?
It's in the eyes...specifically in the LIMBAL RING of the eyes.
The Limbal ring is the dark circle, or ring around someone's iris.
There are some people who say that the darker and thicker the limbal ring, the more sulfur that is in the hair...making it more difficult to lighten.
Some people say that the darker and thicker ring around the eyes indicated that the person has a higher concentration of melanin...making it more difficult to lighten the hair.
Either way, here's what I know to be true from my own personal experience.
I have no science to back this, I have no studies to prove this, but I have my first hand experience...and the experience of those who have paid attention.
When the LIMBAL RING IS DARKER AND THICKER..the hair WILL be more difficult to lift AND the undertone that is created WILL BE BRIGHTER AND LOUDER.
When there is NO LIMBAL RING...the hair WILL be easier to lighten and the lift is generally more refined and not as...LOUD.
It doesn't matter what the color of the eyes are in regards to the limbal ring. Eye color is a whole other lesson we can talk about at a later date (which will help you indicate how the hair will lift as well)
What I am saying is eyes that are blue, or green, or brown or gray..if the ring is dark and thick, the hair will be more difficult to lighten and the undertone will be brighter.
With eyes that are blue, or green, or brown or gray...if there is no limbal ring, the hair will lighten easier and more refined in tone.
WHY is this important?
Well, when you understand the WHOLE STORY and see the BIG PICTURE it makes formulation and predicting what the hair is going to do...a breeze!
I teach ALL about this in The FUNdamentals, and I HIGHLY encourage you to take a look and enroll. This is something that every single one of us needs...it's vital to being a master colorist and I hope you value your career enough to invest in your education!
Here's the main reason this is important. When you look at the clients eyes and see the darker ring..you already KNOW that the hair will lift warmer than usual.
Depending on the texture of the hair, you can shift your bleach and developer ratios to help get past that extra warmth.
When you are coloring..you will know that the client with the darker ring will have a warmer undertone so maybe if you are trying to neutralize, you would opt for a double ash or add blue and ash enhancers. (because I promise you, not every dark hair client needs a double ash!)
The goal is to learn the whole story and how each piece plays an integral part in the outcome...only then can you be a master colorist!
Hope this was helpful!
Happy Hair Coloring,